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文/图 华商报记者 田睿 赵彬。
CHANGSHA, Oct. 24 (Xinhua) -- Talent has long been valued and respected in China. Many stories illustrate how people discovered and wooed "winged steeds," a phrase referring to people of great talent.
"San Gu Mao Lu," which means three visits to a thatched cottage, is among the most famous ones. It tells how Liu Bei, founder of the Shu state during the Three Kingdom Period (220-280), whole-heartedly invited renowned military strategist Zhuge Liang to assist him.
During Liu's first visit, Zhuge, who lived in seclusion, was not at home. Liu returned discouraged at a time without telegraphs and phones.
Soon Liu and his generals came again. But, again, they failed to see Zhuge. This time, Liu left a note expressing his intention.
Regardless of objections from his generals, Liu decided to visit Zhuge for the third time. This time, Zhuge was at home, but he was sleeping when Liu arrived.
Liu and his generals stood outside the house, waiting quietly for hours. When Zhuge woke up, he was moved by Liu's sincerity and agreed to serve as his military counselor. With the help of Zhuge, Liu finally founded the Shu state.
The idiom "San Gu Mao Lu" implies inviting someone to take up a task or position with sincerity and respect. The modern versions of this story are repeating about 1,800 years later. China has been fostering a culture of respecting talents and making great efforts to nurture and gather more skilled professionals amid its national rejuvenation drive.
In Changsha, the capital city of central China's Hunan Province, the human resources director Yu Bin finally hired an influential talent in the automobile mold industry after 15 years of continuous visits and invitations.
The Sunrise auto mold company Yu works with produces mainly molds and fixtures of large and medium-sized automobile covering parts. As products and techniques in this industry are updated and replaced frequently, management and technical talents are regarded as treasures.
"Taking 15 years to woo a talent is tortuous but beneficial for our company's long-term development," Yu said.
China now has many well-trained professionals who play an increasingly prominent role in the country's development. By the end of 2020, there were more than 200 million skilled workers and more than 50 million highly skilled workers in China.
"We have set up a talent mechanism in the company, aiming to train 60 to 100 skilled personnel in three batches every year," Yu said. "In the future, we plan to train and introduce more management and technical personnel, hoping to make them the biggest driving force for the company's development." ■
'The higher the better': Why platform heels are back in fashion
Heels are making a serious comeback, with stars leading the post-lockdown trend for towering footwear.
Beyoncé donned a pair of this year's "it" shoe -- six-inch hot pink Versace platform heels -- to an event in August, spurring an internet frenzy over the item.
碧昂丝在 8 月的一次活动中穿上了今年的“it”鞋——6 英寸的粉红色范思哲厚底高跟鞋，立刻在网络上激起了对这款鞋的狂热。
"People just want to feel happy again," said celebrity stylist Nicole Chavez in a video call, adding that high heels, particularly bright-colored and sparkly ones, are part of the greater "mood-enhancing" fashion seen across the board, from clothing to accessories.
“人们只想再次感到快乐，”明星时尚造型师妮可·查韦斯 (Nicole Chavez) 在视频通话中说，并补充说高跟鞋，尤其是亮色和闪亮的高跟鞋，无论对服装还是配饰，都能够起到全面“提升情绪”的作用。
"We're coming out of wearing sneakers and being in comfortable shoes, and so the jump from sneakers to stilettos is a big one," Chavez said. "I feel like the platform, because it is more comfortable, is a great alternative.
"Right now, it's platform everything. The higher, the chunkier, the better."
But women aren't the only ones wearing platforms. Rapper and singer Lil Nas X often wears them with his flamboyant outfits, while Billy Porter paired his sparkling Richard Quinn gown with statement platform boots at The Fashion Awards. "Saturday Night Live" star Bowen Yang spiced up a more traditional facing black suit at the Emmys with silver ones by Brooklyn based Syro, which brands itself as "femme footwear 4 everyone."
但女性并不是唯一穿着厚底鞋的人。说唱歌手兼歌手 Lil Nas X 经常将其与华丽的服装搭配，而比利·波特（Billy Porter）则将他闪亮的理查德·奎因（Richard Quinn）礼服与时尚大赏中的个性厚底靴搭配在一起。 《周六夜现场》明星杨伯文在艾美奖上用银色Syro厚底鞋为一套传统的黑色西装增添了色彩，而Syro的品牌定位为“人人都可以穿的女性鞋子”
Syro co-founder Shaobo Han says that the shoes have become a tool for self-expression as people increasingly challenge and blur gender binaries.
"Being able to display that femininity (on the street) without feeling ashamed is powerful," Han explained.
A sign of the times
The popularity of platforms has risen and fallen throughout history. Ancient platforms existed as far back as 6th century BCE. Over time they evolved, encompassing East Asian wooden styles worn by Manchu women during the Qing dynasty and the lavishly patterned geometric ones of the 16th century, known as "chopines."
厚底鞋的流行在历史上起起落落。古代的厚底鞋可以追溯到公元前 6 世纪。随着时间的推移，它不断发展，包括清朝满族妇女所穿的东亚木制款式和 16 世纪被称为“chopines”的华丽的几何图案款式。
Noblewomen in southern Europe would wear these "wildly high" platforms, increasing the length of the textiles, according to Elizabeth Hemmelseck, the director and senior curator of the BATA Shoe Museum in Toronto. One recorded pair was as high as twenty inches.
多伦多 BATA 鞋类博物馆馆长兼高级负责人伊丽莎白·赫默尔塞克 (Elizabeth Hemmelseck) 表示，南欧的贵族女性会穿着这些“非常高”的厚底鞋，从而增加纺织品的长度。有记录的一对厚底鞋高达二十英寸。
The platform heel -- which combined both a block sole and heel -- is believed to have emerged in 17th century Persia. “The style was worn by Persian horseback riders," said Hemmelseck.
厚底鞋 - 结合了厚底和高跟 - 被认为是在 17 世纪的波斯首先出现的。赫默尔塞克说：“波斯骑兵穿着的就是这种款式。“
Once the high heel was developed, they fell into obscurity before coming back into fashion during the 1930s, 1970s and late 1990s and 2000s. Interest in platforms seems to grow during times of "social unrest and economic stress," Hemmelseck observed.
之后随着高跟鞋的发明，厚底鞋就变得无人问津，然后在 1930 年代、1970 年代和 1990 年代后期和 2000 年代又重新流行起来。赫默尔塞克观察到，在“社会动荡和经济压力大”的时期，人们对厚底鞋的兴趣似乎就会增长。
"Why (is it that) during the Great Depression the shoes go bananas?" she asked. "Why during the oil crisis and the economic woes of the '70s (are) our shoes going crazy again? Is there some commonality?"
“为什么在大萧条期间鞋子的风格会发狂？”她问。 “为什么在石油危机和 70 年代的经济困境期间，我们的鞋子又会再次发疯？这是巧合吗？”
It's a trend that technology company IBM researched in 2011 with a study exploring why heels go higher during these challenging periods, as well as during later crises like the dot-com bubble bursting in the late '90s.
这是科技公司 IBM 在 2011 年的一项研究，探讨了为什么在这些充满挑战的时期，以及在诸如 90 年代末互联网泡沫破灭这些后来的危机中，高跟鞋会变高。
Beyond being a form of escapism, however, platforms again rose in popularity in the 1930s due to pragmatism, Hemmelseck speculated. Many women at the time couldn't afford a luxurious wardrobe, so investing in an expensive platform heel that could be worn with many outfits offered a way to participate in fashion trends through a "single outrageous accessory," she said.
In the 1970s, the platform heel once again saw a resurgence, with the likes of David Bowie and John Travolta storming the stage with sky-high versions. On stars like Bowie, Travolta and Elton John, the shoes presented "larger questions about the (gender) binary," Hemmelseck added.
1970 年代，厚底鞋跟再次复兴，大卫·鲍伊 (David Bowie) 和约翰·特拉沃尔塔 (John Travolta) 等人穿着超高跟的鞋子冲上舞台。 赫默尔塞克补充说，对于像鲍伊、特拉沃尔塔和埃尔顿约翰这样的明星，这双鞋提出了“关于（性别）二元论的更大问题”。
Men during this period were "talking about this being a revival of (French King) Louis XIV," who was known for his powerful, opulent wardrobe. "Can't we Western men shake off this boring uniform of authority, the business suit and begin to connect with our innate masculinity through how we dress?"
Platform heels have also developed different connotations over time -- and in some cases symbolize sex work. Over time, it evolved into the clear Lucite platforms of the '90s worn by strippers and pole-dancers, thanks to brands such as Pleaser, which then trickled into the mainstream in the 2000s as stars adopted them into fashion.
随着时间的推移，厚底高跟鞋也产生了不同的含义——在某些情况下，它象征着性工作。随着时间的推移，它演变成 90 年代脱衣舞者和钢管舞者穿着的透明 Lucite 厚底鞋，这要归功于 Pleaser 等品牌，然后随着明星将它们带入时尚，它在21世纪初逐渐成为主流。
As for the platform heels favored at red carpet events this year, Hemmelsack said the style plays off this eroticism as well as the surge in '90s nostalgia.
至于今年红毯活动中备受青睐的厚底高跟鞋，赫默尔塞克表示，这种款式充分利用了这种情色和 90 年代怀旧情绪。
In 2021, "dopamine dressing" has become a widely used term in fashion, characterizing the desire for bolder, brighter, sexier outfits.
Some of Syro's creations -- such as ostentatious red platforms and the metallic silver ones worn by Yang -- have coincided with this trend, selling out almost immediately to the surprise of co-founders Han and Henry Bae.
Syro 的一些作品——例如耀眼的红色厚底鞋和杨伯文所穿的金属银色厚底鞋恰逢这一趋势，一上市几乎立即售罄，令联合创始人 Han 和 Henry Bae 感到惊讶。
"People want to feel powerful and (be) powerful. That's something I think platforms really make all of us feel. The moment you put them on, the additional five-inch height that you automatically get, you just start to suddenly see the world differently," they said.
"Living our life as authentically and as joyfully is a protest against the repression that we've been feeling."